
FIBREGLASSING TUTORIAL
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Fibreglassing of foam models sounds difficult, many people
would be thinking resin, hardeners, mess and toxic materials! It couldn’t be further
from the truth though, adding glass cloth to your foam model is actually very
easy and safe, the materials we use are easily purchased at local hardware
outlets and it all cleans up with water! First you
need to buy some glass cloth. We use 25 gram cloth, or more commonly known as
¾ ounce. This is a very light finishing cloth with a fine weave,
it adds no real weight to your model, especially the amount you actually end
up using. The
coating used to adhere the glass is where the
majority of weight comes from. In this case we use a water based
Polyurethane, you can buy it from bunnings and
it’s called Cabbots Crystal Clear. Buy the satin finish
version.
I will give examples
for glassing using our popular F16 jet as a basis. Above is a picture of the
lower ducting, it is a semi circular foam molding that is in contact with the
ground on every landing. It is highly advisable to strengthen this area in
order to increase the models resilience to landings. I always glass the
pieces of a model before assembly if possible. Unless it is a wing that needs
assembly before it is covered, I will try to do the two halves separately as it
is easier to manage smaller sections. First thing is to sand
the foam you are about to glass, use 400 grit aluminum oxide paper, the white
one you can find in most hardware shops. Lightly sand the surface being
careful not to catch the edge of the paper as it will tear lumps from the
foam. Any holes or marks can be filled with RED DEVIL spak
filla. Once sanded blow as
much foam dust off as you can, compressed air is the best thing, then clean with alchohol, or
even a damp cloth will suffice. Cut your glass
slightly oversize to the piece being worked on, lay it over the part and then
start from the middle and brush the Polyurethane into the glass, working out
towards all the edges. Basically you are painting the foam! Use a liberal
amount of Polyurethane, if you try to get away with too little the glass will
lift in areas and can be peeled off easily. It is better to use more than is
necessary and then sand the surface back after it is dry. As you come to edges
use a pair of sharp scissors and trim the glass, doing this as you work the
PU into the glass makes it easier to get a nice finish, once trimmed, brush
lightly over the edges to make sure they are sealed down. Once dry you will
be able to further trim them, and then sand them smooth. The glass and PU
sands very easily. The glass will follow
reasonably complex shapes, I can glass the upper fuselage of the F16 in one
piece with no wrinkles or gaps, just take your time
and work the glass around corners, keep it wet and well stuck down. You can
use your fingers to work with the glass, as the PU is water based there are
no problems with cleanup after you have finished. Once you have glassed
the part, trim all the holes and edges then sand smooth, once this is done
you can put another coat or three of PU over the part to fully seal it, then
final light sand once this is dry and you are ready to assemble the model! |
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